This year marks the 20th anniversary of the establishment of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund. At the time, the industry was still feeling the destabilizing effects of the 9/11 attacks. “The Fashion Fund is our response to the forces of disruption and eccentricity to which emerging designers are especially vulnerable,” Sally Singer wrote in the magazine’s November 2004 issue announcing the foundation’s creation. Citing a series of watershed events in the previous year, including Calvin Klein’s retirement, Donna Karan’s sale to LVMH, and Bill Blass’ death, Vogue and CFDA discuss how to “empower the next generation.” She explained that they met for the purpose. , Ralph Lauren (whose company just turned 35), and Oscar de la Renta, who just turned 70.
“The problem with these young designers, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, Isaac Mizrahi, was that they were all exceptionally talented, but they were young designers from the Reagan-Bush era,” Singer said. explained. “New York urgently needed new talent to secure its place as the world capital of wearable fashion.” It’s interesting to read these words all these years later. Because our interests seem more or less unchanged, but also because that level of candor is rare these days.
In a growing industry that is constantly seeking new things, it is vitally important that young designers have a foundation on which to build and succeed. Looking back at the nearly 200 designers who can claim the title of CVFF finalist or winner is a brief history lesson on the passage of time, as well as a reminder that every designer started small with a dream and a prayer. reminds me. Take Tom Brown, runner-up in 2005 and named CFDA chairman last year. Years later, when Vogue asked the designer for advice for “a new demographic,” Brown said: “I think the most important thing from the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Foundation is leadership. Therefore, choosing the right mentor should be carefully considered. And don’t look at things in the short term. Always think from a long-term perspective.”
While many labels have been forced to close since being selected as CVFF finalists, many have flourished and become part of the creative core of New York fashion. Proenza Schouler (notable as the foundation’s first-ever winner), Rodarte (2006), Phillip Lim (2006 and 2007), Jason Wu (2008), and Billy Reid (2010 winner) , Prabal Gurung (2010), Altuzarra (winner 2010, 2011), Todd Snyder (2013), and Tanya Taylor (2014) all participated in the foundation during its first 10 years, but Bode , Vaquera, Batsheva, Kidsuper, LaQuan Smith, Area, Eckhaus Latta, Luar, Willy Chavarria, and Collina Strada all participated in the past decade.
